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In the February\/March 1982 edition of Waseda Gakuho, the late Yoshitaro Takeuchi, Professor Emeritus at Chubu University, upon reading the Asahi Shimbun article about Nakanishi, described his memories in a column titled \u201cKatsudon and a Waseda Student,\u201d in which he proposed another theory. In 1917 Takeuchi was enrolled at the predecessor of Waseda University Senior High School. He recalls that \u201cat that time there was an inconspicuous dining hall before the school\u2019s entrance in Tsurumakicho, on the right hand side. I often ate katsudon there.\u201d<\/p>\n
Takeuchi explains, \u201cInside the dining hall was a box-shaped brazier covered by wire netting, on top of which were several slices of cutlet. This was done to prevent the cutlets from getting cold. I ate these after placing them on top of rice and adding sauce or other juices. We of course called this katsudon. Unlike today\u2019s katsudon, however, there was no egg.\u201d In his autobiography, Nenwa no ki <\/em>(published by Sagamishobo in 1978), Takeuchi writes: \u201cThe dining hall was quite good and so popular that if one arrived just a little too late one would struggle finding a place to sit.\u201d In the book Takeuchi also recalls eating egg-bound katsudon at a restaurant near Anahachimangu called Takasya (no apparent relation to Takata Bokusya).<\/p>\n Tsurumakicho in October 1913. The arch in the photograph was constructed to celebrate the 30th anniversary of the university\u2019s founding.<\/p><\/div>\n A shot of present-day Tsurumakicho. It has changed dramatically since its earlier, bustling years.<\/p><\/div>\n Based on the year and location of this dining hall that served sauce katsudon, it\u2019s possible that this restaurant was Yo-roppaken, a chain now based in Fukui City, Fukui Prefecture. After completing six years of culinary training in Germany, the founder of Yo-roppaken (and native of Fukui Prefecture), Masutaro Takahata, established the first Yo-roppaken restaurant on November 28, 1913 near what is now Building 120 of Waseda University. Takahata revealed his \u201csauce katsudon\u201d at a culinary presentation conference that same year. The dish is now a specialty of Fukui Prefecture and beloved by residents.<\/p>\n A photograph of where Yo-roppaken is said to have been located (\u201cin front of the school\u2019s entrance in Tsurumakicho, on the right hand side\u201d).<\/p><\/div>\n Yo-roppaken\u2019s sauce katsudon consists of thin slices of pork and ham that are covered in breadcrumbs before being fried to a crisp. Takahata created a special sauce that would blend well with white rice, based on the worcester sauce he encountered in Germany, and applied this sauce to the cutlets before placing them on top of the rice.<\/p>\n We spoke with Noriyuki Takahata, the third owner of Fukui City-based Yo-roppaken. Japanese people first encountered the taste of sauce katsudon in early Taisho Japan. \u201cIt might have been that \u2018progressive spirit\u2019 that led me to establish that restaurant in Waseda,\u201d Noriyuki says jokingly. Noriyuki is continuing to protect the taste of sauce katsudon, which has become a staple of Fukui\u2019s culinary culture. Including franchises, Yo-roppaken currently has nineteen restaurants in the prefecture.<\/p>\n An old map from early Taisho Japan. Yo-roppaken was located at 8 Tsurumakicho Waseda in Ushigome Ward.<\/p><\/div>\n Yo-roppaken\u2019s founder never claimed his restaurant was the originator of katsudon; this idea was spread by magazines and other media. Noriyuki explains: \u201cThe restaurant was popular but the university had long breaks, so during these breaks he apparently opened shop in Hayama, Kanagawa Prefecture. My grandfather told me that Yo-roppaken relocated to Yokosuka City in 1917. I don\u2019t know why there are so many theories surrounding its roots.\u201d<\/p>\n The Sanchoan theory is from 1918 and the Nakanishi theory from 1921. Yo-roppaken has been serving katsudon since its founding in 1913. With its longer history, Yo-roppaken might be katsudon\u2019s originator. However, this does not blemish Nakanishi\u2019s legacy, as it was Nakanishi\u2019s story that brought Yo-roppaken and its sauce katsudon history to light.<\/p>\n We tried \u201cfounder\u201d Yo-roppaken\u2019s sauce katsudon. The cutlets are pleasantly crispy and not greasy. The sourness and sweetness of the sauce, made using the same recipe from the time of the restaurant\u2019s founding, brings forth a well-rounded flavor that blends miraculously with the rice; so well, in fact, that one could be satisfied just scarfing down the rice and sauce. It\u2019s remarkable knowing that one can still experience the original flavor of katsudon from over 100 years ago.<\/p>\n Katsudon Origin Story #1\u3000Okuma Shigenobu\u2019s \u201cSanchoan\u201d<\/a><\/p><\/blockquote>\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/www.waseda.jp\/inst\/weekly\/assets\/uploads\/2018\/04\/c9f32822d302145bc3565b392acdb77c-610x418.jpg\")
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