Since garnering attention with a single illustration shared on social media, Honami Enya has gone on to publish a collection of her work in the form of Sento Zukai (Sento Illustrations), a book published by Chuokoron-Shinsha. The sento clerk and illustrator is a 2015 graduate of Waseda University’s School of Creative Science and Engineering and has appeared on television programs Jounetsu Tairiku (TBS) and Jinsei Design (NHK E Tere).
In part one of this feature, we looked back on the twists and turns that formed Enya’s career, starting from her youth absorbed in architecture, and her fateful encounter with sento, a place that calmed her spirits and inspired her to create Sento Illustrations.
In part two, we explore three of Enya’s favorite sento in the Waseda area. This selection runs the gamut from sento steeped in rich history and adored by Waseda students to dazzling sento renowned among sauna enthusiasts, all of which can be enjoyed for a mere 460 yen.
#1 Kinsenyu: A Retro Sento With a Pond and Goldfish
―― Located on the side street Jizo Yokocho along Waseda-dori, Kinsenyu’s exterior features a curved karahafu roof, thick greenery, and a retro sign that invites visitors to wash their stresses away. With its old-fashioned presentation and historical aura, this sento holds a special place for Enya.
Enya
As I mentioned in the first part of this feature, during my student years, I often stayed overnight at the architecture design studio, immersed in conversations with friends about design. In one instance, I stayed overnight for 10 days straight.
Located right between Nishiwaseda Campus and Waseda Campus, Kinsenyu took good care of me during that time.
―― As we head towards the women’s bath, we admire the sento’s courtyard, which features a pond and lush greenery. We are later greeted by a spacious area with high ceilings.
Enya
Back then I only thought of sento as a substitute for my bath at home. I now spend around an hour and a half to enjoy a hot bath, a cold bath, and a sauna, but back then I would get out after 30 minutes, without even entering the cold baths. I didn’t truly appreciate sento’s offerings back then.
Moreover, I didn’t talk to anyone at sento. I was scared of the older women and couldn’t bring myself to talk to them.
―― Among the women’s bathing areas is a semi-open-air bath that feels like one’s own private space. Baths rotate every week and include lavender and rice bran variants.
Enya
This is it! This was my favorite bath back then. I remember I would talk with friends about which bath I wanted to try that day. We often pulled all-nighters, and I remember my friend falling asleep in the middle of a shower at Kinsenyu. [laughs] Those were good times.
I went to sento with the intention of refreshing myself mentally before working on projects, but I usually ended up passing out afterwards because I was so relaxed. I had the time management skills of a typical student.
―― We visited before business hours. When Enya stepped into the men’s bathing area, an area she had never seen before, she had a startling realization.
Enya
Wow! This place is huge!
―― That’s right. The men’s bathing area at Kinsenyu features a spacious design that’s larger than the women’s counterpart, and even features a pond where goldfish are swimming. Despite the rates being the same, it appears male customers enjoy extra perks.
Enya
Sento have considerably more male customers than female. I’d say the ratio is around 7 (male) to 3 (female). Therefore, men’s bathing areas tend to feature better amenities. As a woman, it’s a bit agonizing.
If I were to create a sento illustration of Kinsenyu, I’d probably draw the men’s area with the cute goldfish, as well as the rest area where you can see the pond in the courtyard. When I was at university, I came here with male and female classmates, and my male friends would meet in front of that pond.
―― According to Kinsenyu’s owner, the number of customers has nearly halved over the years. The area surrounding Nishiwaseda Campus used to be bustling with sento, such as Sakurayu and Yasubeiyu, the latter of which is alluded to in the famous folk song “Kandagawa.” However these establishments could not swim against the currents of time and have since closed up shop.
Even now, Kinsenyu, which provides the type of comfort typically found in the countryside, alleviates the daily fatigue of locals, who visit early in the day, and students who visit at night.
Information
■Kinsenyu
Address: 2-16-20 Nishiwaseda, Shinjuku-ku
Access: 10-minute walk from Takadanobaba Station (JR Yamanote line, Seibu Shinjuku line, and Tokyo Metro Tozai line)
6-minute walk from Nishiwaseda Station (Tokyo Metro Fukutoshin Line)
Tel: 03-3203-2427
Hours: 2:30 p.m. to 12 a.m.
Days Closed: Mondays
#2 Matsunoyu: A Lovably “Awkward” Sento with a Crane Painting
#3 Sekaiyu: An Urban Bathhouse for Sauna Lovers
