#1 Matsuya Foods Chairman Kawarabuki: “Bringing Katsudon to all of America”
In the first part of this special Issue on katsudon we introduced three katsudon origin stories: the story of Sanchoan and its egg-bound soup katsudon, the story of Yo-roppaken and its sauce katsudon, and the story of one Waseda Senior High School student’s idea to create a new delicacy. Katsudon, a fusion of Japanese and Western tastes, embodies the “tides of culture” referenced in the Waseda University school anthem. Just as Waseda University pursues its reforms as a global university, so does katsudon as it spreads its wings and journeys across the world as a global delicacy.
In the second part of this special we interview Toshio Kawarabuki, Chairman of Matsuya Foods and alumnus of Waseda University’s First School of Commerce. We also explore katsudon’s boom in popularity in Karatsu City, Saga Prefecture, hometown of Tameyuki Amano, Waseda University’s second Dean. Lastly we introduce the new but familiar wase-katsudon and bring you the latest katusdon-related information.
With over a thousand stores, Matsuya Foods (based in Musashino City, Tokyo) with their Gyumeshi (beef-bowls) and set meals is one of the most recognizable restaurant brands in Japan. Their Matsunoya restaurant, which offers authentic katsudon and tonkatsu at reasonable prices, currently has 119 stores in Japan and seven overseas. The goal of Waseda University’s First School of Commerce alumnus and Matsuya Foods Chairman, Toshio Kawarabuki, aims to make Matsunoya’s katsudon and tonkatsu staples of Japanese cuisine across the world. Currently there are three restaurants in the U.S. and four restaurants（※As of 2018, 8 restaurants） in Shanghai serving katsudon and tonkatsu. We met with Matsuya Foods Chairman Kawarabuki to discuss the significance of these developments.
――Why did Matsuya Foods decide to establish restaurants that serve katsudon and tonkatsu?
“The idea to open the restaurants started in early 2000 when I read a newspaper article which suggested that one could develop a restaurant chain if it served katsudon under 500 yen. At that time I was thinking about the company’s prospects and about ways to get Matsuya Foods listed on the First Section of theTokyo Stock Exchange, so I thought about making katsudon the second pillar of our restaurants after Gyumeshi.”
――What’s appealing about katsudon?
It’s a common food but at the same time a delicacy. Eggs and meat used to be very expensive ingredients. Now they can be enjoyed at low prices, and the savoriness of the meat and fat is irresistible.”
Chairman Kawarabuki
――Indeed. In fact Matsuya Foods serves katsudon at the price of just 500 yen, a single coin.
“I want to continue focusing on offering the lowest price. We’re looking at ways to offer the best product even if it affects our bottom line. This includes using chilled (refrigerated) meat to retain its flavor.
――What do you focus on when deciding the menu?
“We’ve emphasized health over the years, especially when it comes to the oil used in our food. We absolutely refuse to use ingredients with antioxidants such as those often used in other countries, and our sauce is additive-free. With Japan’s aging society, we want to offer food that is healthy and enjoyable for the seniors as well.”
Matsunoya’s New York donburi menu
――Matsuya Foods is spreading its katsudon and tonkatsu in New York as well.
“We expanded into New York after a friend who had opened a tonkatsu restaurant in New York was looking to sell his restaurant after business didn’t go as well as planned. Our products were already received well by customers in Shanghai, and since there were no other tonkatsu specialty restaurants in New York at the time, I figured if we worked on the price and service speed we could be successful. Personally, I was fond of New York and I knew that eventually we would enter the American market. Also, since our employees are relatively young, I wanted to encourage them to think about going overseas. The Japanese market is small. I knew that eventually we would have to set our sights on the rest of the world. Presently, we have three restaurants in New York: two Katsu-hama restuarants and one Matsunoya restaurant.”
――How have your products been received in the U.S.?
“Everyone says ‘it’s delicious.’ But it’s expensive ($15) compared to in Japan. It won’t be possible to reduce prices to a single 500 yen coin like in Japan, but we need to strive towards reducing it to at least $10.”
New York restaurant
――Is the egg-bound soup katsudon also popular in New York?
“It seems like people enjoy it. Our sales in New York rank 4th among our restaurants. Also, because the sauce katsudon requires less preparation, we can offer it at a lower price, and customer feedback is positive.”
――Did you encounter katsudon during your university years?
“At that time I wasn’t able to eat it. I didn’t have much money so I usually ate inexpensive high-volume dishes like tanmen rice. If I remember correctly, a meal at the cafeteria cost 80 yen. After I started working part time in my third year and had some extra money, I occasionally ate at a restaurant called Kinjoan. Eating tendon (tempura rice bowl) and drinking beer there was quite luxurious back then.”
――Were you aware that Waseda was the birthplace of katsudon?
“No, I wasn’t aware. I never went to Sanchoan but I remember it always being a pleasant and elegant restaurant.”
――As Chairman of a restaurant chain that is bringing katsudon and tonkatsu to other countries, are you conscious of the fact that you are spreading “katsudon,” which originated in Waseda, to the world?
“I feel sorry for my predecessors that I have become the representative of katsudon [laughing]. But I am delighted that Matsuya Foods is responsible for spreading ‘katsudon,’ which our predecessors coined, over the years. As for Waseda being the birthplace of katsudon, I suppose that makes Matsuya Foods, which is spreading it to the rest of the world, a member of the katsudon comrades [laughing]. Waseda students feel strongly about katsudon so we can’t let them down. We need to make sure we serve them food that has value.”
――What are your upcoming plans in terms of further international expansion?
“We would like to expand across all of America, but visa and long-term residency issues present some difficulties. If we are going to expand into America, we need to at least be committed to that much. With its 1,100 restaurants in Japan, Matsuya Foods aims to become a trillion yen industry.
――Your scholarship fund, the Toshio Kawarabuki Scholarship, provides tremendous support to Waseda students. Do you have a message for your kohai?
“I hear there are less young entrepreneurs in Japan compared to other countries. There is a labor shortage in Japan, which means you can work in a company anytime you like, so if there’s a business or project you want to start, I suggest you go out and do it. This will strengthen Japan’s foundations. It’s difficult to find satisfaction simply doing what is presented to you, but you’ll find great fulfillment if you turn your aspirations into reality.”
We tried the 490 yen (tax included) roast katsudon available at the Matsunoya Mitaka restaurant on the first floor of Matsuya Foods’s head office. It was lunchtime and there was a long line of customers. The American chilled pork used in Matsuya’s staple Premium Gyumeshi is fresh and flavorful thanks to their chilled meat techniques. It does not taste like frozen meat, and it has a delicious texture and flavor that is juicy and filling. The quality is surprising considering its price. It truly represents Chairman Kawarabuki’s desire to provide to as many people as possible food that is healthy but inexpensive. As katsudon transitions from a Japanese dish to a global delicacy, one cannot help but feel the global possibilities waiting to be realized at Waseda.
All Katsudon Leads to Waseda!!#3 After 100 Years, Sauce Katsudon Returns to Waseda
English translation: Joachim Muntal
